Summary: All-around carbon road bike wheels provide you the versatility to perform well on most any type of road terrain and conditions you’ll ride. After testing and comparing the top models, I recommend the Zipp 303 NSW available at the best prices from my top-ranked stores here, here, and here and the Bontrager Aeolus XXX 4 available here.

If you are looking to get a new set of carbon road bike wheels for your rim brake bike, you are going to want them to perform well on every measure. For what they will cost you, they better deliver a big improvement in performance over the carbon hoops you have now or transform your cycling experience if you’ve been riding stock or upgrade alloy wheels.

The best all-around carbon wheels are made with 40mm to 50 mm deep carbon fiber rims and should give you sustained aerodynamic benefits when you ride fast and make your climbing easier when you go up long, steep ascents. You’ll expect sure handling and easy-rolling on everything from smooth pavement in calm weather to rough road surfaces or strong crosswinds.

They should be stiff, accelerate well, and be responsive enough to keep you competitive in group rides or road races, comfortable enough to ride on for hours and hours in an endurance event, and stop quickly and predictably on both dry and wet roads.

That’s a long list of requirements for a high-performance rim brake carbon clincher wheelset. To help you make an informed and confident decision about which wheels and stores will deliver for you, dig into my reviews below that tell you how the latest group of carbon bike wheels perform, what they cost, and how they compare.

Related: Looking for carbon wheels for your road disc bike?  Click Best Carbon Disc Wheelset

Related: Not sure what kind of wheels to get?  Click Road Bike Wheels – How To Choose The Best For You


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The performance of all-around carbon wheels has gotten better recently in four ways

I recommend two Best Performers in this category

Compare wheelset performance, prices, and specs for those I reviewed in one chart

Several other wheelsets provide good options you should consider


With each new generation of carbon bike wheels, there continue to be notable performance improvements. That’s especially the case for the all-around, rim brake, carbon clincher wheelset category that this review focuses on.

Five years ago, cyclists could make compelling arguments for and against the best carbon and best alloy wheels for all-around riding. With the developments since then, however, it’s now pretty hard to put up a credible argument in favor of alloy wheels on anything other than price.

The best carbon road bike wheels are clearly superior against all the key performance criteria.

Which performance characteristics separate out the best carbon road bike wheels from the rest? What developments have there been in recent years that have created this superior performance?

Here’s my short list of the most important ones.

1. Aero performance – Trend spotters go around saying things like “beige is the new black” or “comedy is the new rock’n’roll” or, the one I especially hate, “50 is the new 30”.

That last one, which I think means we’re all going to be working a lot longer, isn’t far numerically at least from what’s been going on with all-around carbon road bike wheels. Whereas the depth of wheels in the “all-around” category used to be 35-45mm, the best ones are now 40 or even 45 to 50mm deep. Deeper wheels are faster than shallower ones when you are riding at aero speeds. (This study is only the latest to reach this conclusion.)

And before you jump to the conclusion that deeper wheels are heavier, and therefore won’t climb as well, I will tell you that the best all-around carbon wheels aren’t any heavier than the 1500 gram +/-50 gram range than they were when I began tracking and updating this category in the mid-2010s.

Actually, these wheels are staying in this weight range while getting both deeper and wider. 19C and even 21C wheels are the new 17C, the “C” referring to the internal width in millimeters between the bead hooks of the rims of these wheels. The external widths have also increased to as much as 27mm and even 28mm across the brake tracks though many 17C wheels are still in the 24-25mm external width range.

Along with these deeper and wider rims, or perhaps because of the added latitude it gives wheel designers to change the shape of rims made of carbon fiber, the crosswind performance has also improved. While you used to have to worry about getting pushed off your line (or even blown off the road) on the best of the old 35-45mm deep carbon wheels, you don’t anymore. The best ones now almost thumb their blunt noses at crosswinds while you continue merrily along at speeds you used to only be able to maintain with time-trial depth wheels.

2. Comfort – The best carbon road bike wheels are now more comfortable than ever. Because the rims have greater internal widths, you can put wider tires on them. And because you can put wider tires on them, you can reduce the pressure you set your tires at and get a more comfortable ride while still providing the same amount of overall volume in the tires to oppose your same weight.

Further, because the outside rims of your wheels are wider, wider tires don’t hurt your aero performance as you go to those 25C tires everyone wants to ride these days for better comfort. That, of course, is as long as the mounted, inflated width of the 25C tire you want to ride is narrower than the external rim width. (More on this in the Topic of the Week section of this edition of Know’s Notes.)

Finally, because your tires are wider on the wider rims, you get better handling with more of the width (rather than length) of your tire in contact with the road.

There may be a practical limit to how much wider wheels go and contribute to your comfort. The front forks and rear stays of many 3 to 5-year-old rim brake bikes won’t fit 28C tires. Older bikes often won’t even fit many 25C tires.

Even where they can fit, 28C tires will wreck the aerodynamics of the wheels that are even 27mm or 28mm wide. Most 28C tires, once installed and inflated, measure a millimeter or two wider than the 28mm width suggested by the 28C tire designation.

28C tires will be the new 25C for the already wider and growing carbon disc wheelset category. And, with many more new enthusiast-level road disc bikes being sold now than rim brake ones, and as that gap continues to grow, I don’t expect rim brake bike makers will invest in designing and trying to sell new rim brake bikes with wider forks and rear stays to accommodate wider wheels and tires.

In addition to wider tires, tubeless ones further add to comfort on the latest generation of carbon bike wheels. You can lower the pressure on tubeless tires another 5-10 psi below your tubed tire inflation levels with little concern for pinch flats.

Tubeless-ready wheels are now nearly ubiquitous among the best carbon wheels. Tubeless-optimized wheels, ones that have rim beds with center channels, side gutters, and bead hooks designed for the width, bead designs and low pressures of tubeless tires are becoming more commonplace.

If you want to read more on all of this, here’s my post on the best tubeless tires.

You can’t put lipstick on a pig to disguise its true nature. By that, I mean that a wheel has to have the vertical compliance built into it in the first place through a combination of its rim, spokes, spoke angles, and hub flanges for it to have a chance of being comfortable. A wider or less inflated tire won’t do it alone.

Most of the best carbon wheel makers have figured out how to make compliant wheels. Your choice of tire width, pressure, and tubeless vs. tubed tires can enhance the compliance they start with but only take you so far.

3. Puncture resistance and resilience – The tubeless tires you can run on today’s best carbon bike wheels are more resistant to pinch flats than tubed tires as they don’t have the tube rubbing against the tire that causes the tube to pinch and flat in the first place. Pinch flats are a bigger risk as you run lower pressures with wider tubed tires.

Tubeless tires are also more resilient, meaning they recover more quickly when you puncture. Most punctures happen at the bottom of tires that are in contact with the pavement. The sealant in your tires will fill holes the size of most punctures while you roll along without you even getting off the bike.

Of course, larger bottom punctures or those in the side may require you to put in a new tube with if the sealant doesn’t close a large puncture or sidewall tear in a tubeless tire.

4. Braking – Big gains have been made in the dry and wet braking performance of the best carbon clincher wheelsets for rim brake bikes. At the same time, big differences remain between wheels within the best category and between the best and many lower-priced carbon wheels.

Wheels with the best braking performance have brake track surfaces that are textured, etched, patterned or treated in some way to create an uneven surface. This surface creates more friction when the brake pad comes up against it and helps slow you down.

While carbon bike wheels that have one of these brake track treatments perform better than those that don’t, there are differences in modulation, pad wear, noise, and wet road performance between those that do. I note that in the reviews below.

The use of resins that have a higher temperature melting point also separates the best carbon clincher wheelsets from the rest. The use of these resins greatly limits the risk of carbon delamination you can get after braking wheels with lower temperature resins or with made inferior carbon wheel manufacturing techniques.

As riders, we have also adopted braking techniques that serve us well when riding carbon clincher wheelsets on rim brake bikes the same way any group of riders adapts to new products that can improve our performance. For example, time trial riders change their body position to use aero bars and enthusiasts train differently and better by using power meters rather than relying primarily on heart rate monitoring.

Specifically, I and others who have learned how to get the best out of carbon clinchers don’t drag the brakes when riding downhill as many riders will when braking on alloy wheels. We also alternate braking the front and back wheels. Doing this should allow you to give each wheel 2-4x the amount of time cooling as braking.

We engage the brakes firmly and get off them quickly rather than ease into it and hold them a bit longer as with alloys. In the rain, we know to give ourselves a little more time and we squeeze the brake levers a little harder when we first brake to clear the water from the brake tracks.

Do you need to use these braking techniques? Not totally. I’ve tested the best current-generation carbon bike wheels of various depths on an 8%, 1 mile downhill stretch while dragging the brakes the whole way and many aren’t even warm to the touch at the bottom.

Should you adopt these techniques? Absolutely. It just so happens that they maximize both your performance and the longevity of your wheels. You don’t go out and buy carbon bike wheels that enable you to go faster just so you can drag your brakes going downhill. That would be like going out and buying an aero bike and seldom getting in the drops or buying a power meter and not having a training program.

On the other hand, if you agree with my fellow tester Moose who says that brakes are highly overrated and seldom uses them, none of this matters much at all.

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For In The Know Cycling reviews, I evaluate product-specific criteria in four groups – performance, design, quality, and cost. The criteria that matter most in those categories for the best all-around, carbon wheels for rim brake bikes are:

Performance:  Versatility, aerodynamics, stiffness, acceleration, comfort, handling and braking. You can read detailed descriptions of each of these here.

Design:  Wheel weight and material, rim depth, rim internal and external widths, rim profile, hub and spoke design or selection, and wheel finish.

Quality: Durability, warranty, and service/support.

Cost:  Market price.

The Best Performer wheelset is selected independent of cost and chosen using the performance criteria mentioned above.

Design shows up (or not) in performance so I don’t judge it alone. Two products with very similar designs, for example having U-shaped rim profiles and the same weight, may perform similarly or differently. Design is an intended means to an end but not itself the basis for an evaluation or product choice.

Quality is either a go or no go in my recommendations. I won’t recommend anything that doesn’t have an acceptable level of quality but I’m not going to recommend something just because it has superior quality if it under-performs or has higher costs.

My cost evaluation is based on the wheelset’s best available price from looking at what it sells for across all the online stores that have it in stock and that meet my customer satisfaction rating requirements. This is the market price, often less than the full retail price, the manufacturer’s recommended price, or what it sells for at your local bike shop.

I’ve been reviewing the all-around carbon clincher category of wheels since I started this site. I wrote my first review about these wheels in 2014 by sorting through 36 models from 23 different companies largely based on their 35mm to 45mm rim depth. 

This included carbon and carbon alloy wheels from well known and lesser established brands, wheels that varied in performance from truly outstanding to barely acceptable, and wheels that varied in price from a little more than $1,000 to as much as $3,000.

Each year I review this category I seem to narrow the field. I have eliminated some models because it has been 2 to 3 years since they were introduced or updated and their performance is no longer competitive.

Technology and performance has changed very rapidly in this category. Anything more than a couple years old will likely have braking, comfort, handling or other performance below that of the best of the current generation models.

I’ve not considered some carbon road bike wheels in this review because they are distributed and supported only through dealers in one country or region or only sold online and sometimes come from halfway across the globe directly to you. While that in and of itself doesn’t make the wheels perform any less well, if a wheel brand doesn’t have a dealer network or at least a service center in the country or region where you ride or another way to quickly and cost-effectively get your wheels serviced should you have a problem or warranty issue, that’s not a wheelset I want to own or suggest you even consider.

I know this puts the smaller, less well-financed, and regional wheel makers or brands at a disadvantage. Frankly, I don’t care about the disadvantages or advantages of wheel makers and brands that sell wheels to us. I care about my fellow enthusiasts being able to buy, ride and get service for the wheelsets we buy.

This review considers the best performing all-around carbon bike wheels against the performance criteria I laid out earlier. You can read a two-part post (Part 1 and Part 2) covering a wide range of lower-priced, all-around carbon wheels that perform below those in this review across multiple criteria. 

You can read reviews of deeper aero rim brake carbon road bike wheels (here), shallower carbon climbing wheels (here) and lower cost, low profile alloy upgrade rim brake wheels (here).

I am also no longer reviewing or recommending carbon-alloy rim brake wheels. I haven’t seen any new or improved carbon-alloy wheels come out in the last few years. Companies appear to be investing in improving their carbon clincher braking performance as I described above and developing carbon road disc wheels.

If you don’t see the wheelset you are interested in this post, you might want to enter the wheelset name in the search box at the top of this page or look at the list of reviews in the sidebar as they might be reviewed in another category.

Along with each review, I’ve provided you links to stores that carry each wheelset, have them in stock at the best prices, and have excellent customer satisfaction ratings. Using those links saves you time and money and also supports our ability to bring you more reviews.

With that hopefully informative but regrettably long introduction, let’s get onto my recommendations.

For the first time, I’m recommending two wheelsets as Best Performers. After the reviews of each of these, I’ve provided some direct comparisons.

Best Performers


Little more than a year after Zipp introduced its first line of NSW wheels, it came out with an updated line in 2018. The latest 303 NSW is wider (19C), lighter (1510g), and has an updated rim profile. Along with its NSW siblings, the new 303 is the first line of Zipp rim brake wheels that are tubeless.

The hubs and brake tracks that were new with the earlier NSW carry over as does its premium price.

I and my fellow testers rated these the Best Performer the last time we reviewed wheels in this category. I wondered if the changes made them any better.

Zipp 303 NSW 2020In a word, yes. They are more comfortable on long rides and mixed terrain than before. They accelerate and climb a tad better. They still have an uncanny way of seemingly ignoring the crosswinds. If you run them at lower pressure with tubeless tires, they seem to be even more surefooted than before. If you run them at higher pressures, they feel as responsive as a whip.

My fellow tester Nate, the all-business, often stoic Bullet Train and A group ride leader at my local bike club who also led his race team to another TTT victory and won his age group up the New England equivalent of the Mt. Ventoux climb this year called the 303 NSW “absolutely dreamy.”

Seems the ability to run this 303 NSW carbon clincher wheelset tubeless at <80 psi for Nate, who is all of about 155 lbs/70kg, created what he described as a super smooth ride with great stability and control, soaking up bumps and harsh road conditions.

I seldom hear Nate or the few other super talented and competitive riders I’ve met talk about comfort and stability. This wheelset brought out that reaction.

At the other end of the spectrum, I was surprised to hear my fellow tester Moose, who weighs about 200lbs/90kg (and thus the reason for his nickname), speak positively about the 303 NSW’s stiffness and responsiveness. Zipps characteristically aren’t as stiff as other wheelsets and under Moose’s frame, I thought they might be a tad soft.

Nope. He found them sturdy enough and really liked their responsiveness. Despite the range of alloy and carbon wheels that were shallower and deeper and the same depth as these we rode this summer, he kept coming back to the 303 NSW as the one he wanted to ride for this event or that long weekend away.

When I ride these wheels, I feel like the Wayne and Garth characters from the old Wayne’s World skits who repeated “We’re not worthy” when someone famous invited them to stick around.

Why? When I get the 303 NSWs up to speed, which doesn’t take long, they seem to hold my momentum without me having to work really hard to keep them there. When I go out on a windy day, my 150lb/68kg body can get pushed around but the NSWs seem to anchor me to my line. The wheels are snappy on legs that haven’t had much snap in them for more than a few years now. They also climb easily for me.

The braking on these wheels is probably their most debated characteristic. The performance isn’t debatable – they are as capable on dry roads as alloy wheels and nearly so on wet ones.

Instead, the noise that comes from these brakes creates the greatest divide in the evaluations I and my fellow testers have had and that some of you have shared in your comments in past reviews about other Zipp wheels that use the same brake track design.

While it’s not annoying like the shrieks you have likely heard from older carbon brake tracks and pads, some don’t like any noise while others think the Zipp brake sound is cool. Perhaps the best analog is the reaction people have to noise coming off of freehubs. Some like it while others want it quiet. Ironically, the hubs on the 303 NSW freewheels without a whisper.

All in, the new 303 NSW is probably the most versatile and complete all-around set of carbon bike wheels a road cycling enthusiast will ever need. A racer might want more of this and not care about that from their wheels but for those of us who enjoy a wide range of riding from individual training to aggressive A and B group rides to long endurance rides to serious climbing to riding at high speeds and want one wheelset to help them deliver great performance and riding experiences, the Zipp 303 NSW is hard to beat.

Am I worthy of this level of performance from a wheelset? Probably not but I’ll gladly take it. And, if I’m going to pay the market price of about $3200/£2600/€3000 for this one, I’ve earned that level of performance or at least bought it. If you want it for yourself, you can find it online at recommended stores Competitive Cyclist, Tweeks Cycles, Wiggle, and others at Know’s Shop.

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There’s something about my long-ago memories of driving a Chevrolet Corvette and my recent experience riding the Bontrager Aeolus XXX 4 wheels that connects.

No, it isn’t the phallic imagery of a Corvette and the XXX label of the latest Aeolus, though perhaps you could make that connection. (Sorry that I just did.)

Rather, it’s the rush of rolling at speed they both provide. While a lot of cars and wheels roll fast, it’s what happens in the moment of speed that makes life behind the wheel and in the saddle exciting.

Hitting a turn at speed carries more unknows than rolling straight. The Corvette’s wide wheelbase, wide tires, and low chassis provided me the handling performance to confidently hit every turn faster than I’d ever done before.

Bontrager Aeolus XXX 4 carbon road bike wheelsSimilarly, the Bontrager Aeolus XXX 4 mounted with 25C tubeless tires stick it in the corners. Fellow tester Nate enthused they always seemed so much more planted and stable than any other carbon clincher wheelset he’d experienced, especially in turns with bumpy pavement.

I measured the internal rim width between the bead hooks at 21.1 mm on these and other Bontrager Aeolus XXX series wheels. That makes them the widest rim brake carbon bike wheels we’ve tested, notably wider than most which run 19 mm or 17 mm these days.

Their 27.5 mm external rim width across the brake tracks is nearly as wide as others like the Enve and Zipp in this category. The external rim width along with the mounted and inflated 25C tire width helps contribute the XXX 4’s aerodynamic performance while its wide internal rim dimension and the wheels’ stiffness lead to its great handling and comfort.

Many road disc wheelsets have been at 21 mm internal for a couple years now and I can confirm riding them is a similar speed-liberating handling experience. The better support a wider rim provides to the sidewalls of the same 25C tire makes a real difference. It’s nice to see Bontrager bringing this to the rim brake world.

Moose took these wheels for a ride down the 8-mile, 8% average grade asphalt road at Whiteface Mountain, home of the Lake Placid Winter Olympics. Hitting speeds of 50 mph, he reported that the crosswinds made the riding the XXX 4s “a little sketchy” but not enough to back off his exhilarating speed.

I don’t know if that’s Moose’s daredevil approach to going downhill on bikes (and skis) that he prefers but I do know he arrived safely at the bottom and was so excited after the ride he sent me a half dozen texts about his descent.

While neither of us could find strong crosswinds, Nate and my experience in moderate ones on these wheels were fine. They did acknowledge the breeze but it didn’t affect our steering or cause us to do anything unnatural.

Unfortunately, you sometimes need to slow down. Fortunately, all three of us were impressed with the braking power and modulation of these wheels on dry roads; they are among the best here.

On wet roads, however, they are no better than earlier generation carbon clincher rim brakes. Like the Vette, leave these Bontragers in the garage when it’s wet outside.

The XXX 4s are “stiff enough” to climb and sprint but they are more above average in this all-around carbon clincher pack than clearly superior compared to others on this criterion. They are considerably heavier than the 1400 grams claimed by Bontrager – 1556 grams on my scale. This puts these XXX 4s some 50-100 grams heavier than most in this rim brake carbon road bike wheels category.

Why is there such a big weight difference? I measured them with the rim strips you need to ride them tubeless. Bontrager doesn’t include the strips in their claimed weight. It’s unusual to have rim strips weigh so much. Most rim tape adds 5-10 grams per wheel. These rim strips weigh about 65 grams per wheel.

I asked the Bontrager support line and a dealer whether I could run them tubeless with tape rather than the strips. Neither recommended it. The strips add the height and rim bed gutters you need to get your tubeless tires locked in.

If you want to ride them with a tube and clincher, they will be far lighter. But, to gain the versatility, comfort, and handling that we experienced, run them tubeless even though they will be slightly heavier.

The added weight makes for an average, more dampened acceleration than a lively, springier reaction when you want to accelerate. Their DT Swiss star ratchet hub internals provides quick engagement (and quiet freewheeling) but doesn’t improve the acceleration enough to make a difference.

If you’ve got the watts in your legs, you can probably get these wheels up to speed much in the way a Corvette corals the horses under its hood to get you from 0 to 60 mph faster than most.

It’s what the Corvette and Bontrager Aeolus XXX 4 do at speed, more than how fast they get you there, that separates them from the competition.

You can order these wheels online for $2400 and €2400 by clicking on these links to Trek.


So what separates the two Best Performers? The Bontrager XXX4 is the stiffer of the two. That stiffness shows up in more precise cornering and the feeling of more direct power transfer when climbing. The Zipp 303 NSW is a more responsive, more lively ride and feels like it is less work going uphill.

They are both comfortable but the Zipp holds the edge here and it shows up on long rides. Choosing to ride them tubeless, which makes both more comfortable, and where you set the inflation pressure will likely have as much or more effect on your comfort than choosing between the wheels.

The XXX 4 and 303 NSW brake extremely well on dry pavement though the XXX 4 does it quietly. Because the XXX 4 is stiffer, you can set up your brake pads closer to the rims and get better modulation in your braking. If you find yourself riding on wet roads often, the 303 NSW will give you notably better braking.

As a light B group rider, I loved both but preferred the livelier Zipp wheelset and it being totally unfazed by crosswinds. While I prefer its quiet freehub, I wasn’t bothered by the brake noise.

I’d have thought the slightly stiffer XXX 4 would win Moose over but he liked the responsiveness of the 303 NSW and the range of things it did so well.

Despite loving the comfort of the Zipp, Nate gave the nod to the XXX 4 for its better handling and brake modulation. He also felt the way it handled varying terrain would make it a great wheelset to use during cyclocross season.

Performance comparisons and preferences aside, the price of these two wheelsets differs by quite a bit. While neither of these wheelsets is a bargain, the Bontragers are about $800 less expensive. That’s an important consideration if you weigh the price of performance in your decision.



Campagnolo is a proud company and a much-admired brand. Most Campy fans I’ve come across are extremely loyal in the same way sports fans are to the teams they’ve been rooted for since childhood.

A friend I’ve ridden with for years only rides Campy wheels and groupsets and isn’t the least bit interested in trying gear from other companies. He owns a half dozen classic bikes, his dad runs a Ferrari dealer, and he’s of Irish heritage.

That last part doesn’t line up but I totally get and see how the rest of it fits together. And he rides away from me whenever he wants to which tells me his loyalty and talent are well suited too.

Campy Bora Ultra 50 carbon road bike wheelsBora is one of the most iconic wheel models in the Campy stable. Always at the top of the Campy line and with great performance to back it up, it was proudly a tubular only wheelset for 20 years. In 2015, the first Bora clinchers were introduced. In 2018, Campy introduced the first disc brake Bora models.

For a company with a great heritage, undying customer loyalty, and iconic models like the Bora, making change is like walking a tightrope between retaining what made you successful in the past and keeping you successful into the future.

The Bora 50 Ultra is teetering on that tightrope. It is changing but the change is slow. Its performance is running behind other wheelsets in this category of all-around carbon bike wheels that have changed much quicker.

The Bora is a reasonably comfortable wheelset with 25C tubed tires on it but no more comfortable than average. It isn’t tubeless-ready. They haven’t widened the rim’s 17mm internal, 24mm external dimensions since they introduced it as a clincher in 2016. So don’t plan on taking it out for a dirt ride or run it in a cross race.

With 25C Continental Grand Prix 4000S II mounted on these Bora 50s, the tire measures 26.9mm wide. This creates a less than ideal aero combination when other all-around wheels are wide enough to exceed the tire’s width. If you are looking for speed, you’ll be better off with 23C tires mounted to these rims.

Its classic, V-shaped profile creates a classic crosswind handling issue on these 50mm deep rims during a time when other wheels have created profiles that have greatly reduced or nearly eliminated crosswind hassles.

If you are a Campy loyalist, I can imagine you are saying to yourself or perhaps yelling out loud at me things like “I don’t care about wide wheels, U shaped profiles, tubeless tires or doing any stinking dirt road riding. I want a stiff, classic Campy race wheelset and I know how to deal with the crosswinds just fine, thank you.”

If that’s your reaction, and you want a classic set of wheels, these may be for you.

The Bora Ultra 50 is indeed stiff, amongst the stiffest around. This is a Campy wheelset characteristic that has been central to the Bora and continues in this clincher model. That stiffness, along with their light weight, shows up when you accelerate and when you climb.

They handle very precisely, though not any better than a few other of the better handling wheels in this category.

A trademark of Campy wheels is their smooth rolling hubs. Very smooth rolling in the case of the Bora Ultra 50 which come with the company’s top ceramic bearing fitted hubs.

Oh, and they look drop-dead gorgeous. I don’t normally comment on the looks of gear because everyone has their own tastes. But, these Boras standout. No stealth looking black on black labels and matte black finish rims for these babies.

The carbon weave is beautiful. The large grey and white or red Campagnolo labels scream your brand preference. It’s hard for anyone to miss what you are wearing… uh, riding. Very Italian indeed.

Campagnolo did make some changes for the 2018 update of the Bora you’d normally associate with faster changing wheel brands. They went to a textured brake track and added in some higher temperature resin to improve performance and reduce the chance of overheating.

While the previous model had pretty good carbon rim braking, this is a touch better and puts them on par with the best dry braking carbon wheels. Like the others with textured tracks, they are a bit noisy but I’ll take that every day for the improved performance. The Bora’s stiffness allows you to set the pads closer to the rims and get better modulation than many other wheelsets.

Like most things Campy, they sell for a price premium to every other wheelset in this category. I guess if I threw a set of Lightweight Meilenstein into the mix the Bora Ultra 50 would look like a bargain. But at Campy’s suggested price of USD$3260, £2620, €2830, they look pricey. Fortunately, you can often find them for a market price far less.

You can buy the Bora Ultra 50 wheels at one of my recommended stores Chain Reaction Cycles and Wiggle or go to these search results at Know’s Shop to see where you can buy the Bora Ultra 50 from other stores I recommend because they have the best prices, customer satisfaction records, and selection on enthusiast-level cycling gear and kit.

An option is to go with the Bora One 50, the same wheels but with Campy’s less expensive ceramic bearing, alloy shell USB hubs. They add back about 50 grams to the wheels but are still perfectly good, smooth-riding hubs that will save you hundreds. They’re available at ProBikeKit.


The latest incarnation of the Easton EC90 SL carbon road bike wheelset really likes to go. I know that’s not a technical term but that was my initial impression after riding them the first few times and every time after that. They are fast, faster than a 38mm deep carbon wheelset should be or at least as fast as any wheel I’ve ever ridden in the 40mm depth range. They roll very smoothly – light, quiet though not silent freehubs, and kept me going without having to put out a whole lot of extra effort once I got them up to speed.

These are also very stiff wheels. They are right there with me without hesitation when I accelerate and don’t flex when I get out of the saddle to climb. Consistent with this level of stiffness, they handle precisely and confidently in corners.

Not sure if it’s the rims or the hubs they’ve put on these wheels that have wider spacing between the flanges than in prior models, but together (with the spokes of course) these wheels are plenty stiff, responsive and confident.

While they are stiff laterally or side to side, and that’s a good thing, they are also stiff vertically or up and down, and that’s not such a good thing. Vertical stiffness is another way to say compliance which is another way to talk about comfort. These aren’t as compliant or comfortable as other wheels in this category.

If you are a competitive rider that likes to inflate your tires 90 or 100 psi and do 40 and 50 mile long rides, their comfort won’t be much of a consideration. You like a firm ride, it’s a relatively short distance, and you probably put comfort way down on your list of priorities.

On the other hand, if you do long endurance rides and lower your tire pressure as far as you can because you want comfort, these wheels aren’t going to be plush no matter how wide your tires or low your pressure. They just aren’t built that way.

If you fall somewhere in between, the comfort isn’t bad. It’s certainly not going to ruin your ride and it’s just not going to be the highlight of your experience. They do ride more comfortably with tubeless than tubed tires so set them up that way if comfort is important to you.

The latest, 2017 version of the EC90 SL has somewhat improved braking but they have neither a textured brake track or use a high-temperature resin as the best braking wheels do. The brakes perform at last generation levels so give yourself some extra time to stop, especially on wet roads, over what you are used to if you are coming from alloy wheels.

I also recommend you use something other than the Swissstop Yellow brake pads Easton ships with these carbon wheels. The Yellows leave a pollen colored ring on the otherwise very attractively finished and labeled rims and the modulation is somewhat soft. I’ve used ENVE, Zipp and Swissstop Black Prince carbon pads with these wheels. All provide better modulation and no ring around the track.

You can buy the Easton EC90 SL wheels by clicking through this link to recommended stores on Know’s Shop.


When ENVE introduced the second generation SES 3.4 wheelset as “climbing wheels with an aero advantage” it seemed like we were being fed a new product with an identity crisis. The first-generation SES 3.4 were all-around wheels. And ENVE also had the SES 2.2 climbing wheels in their lineup, ones I’ve previously evaluated and rated the Best Performer in my first review of carbon clinchers for climbing.

ENVE SES 3.4 carbon road bike wheels

Well, the SES 2.2 is still around but the second generation SES 3.4 is a better climbing wheel. In my latest review of the best climbing wheels, I rated them the Best Performer.

Riding them back to back with the Zipp 303 NSW, Nate and I found the SES 3.4 stiffer and a better climber than the NSW or anything else in this category.

They don’t get up to speed as fast as the 303 NSW and you need to put more work into them to maintain it once your there.

Makes sense; at rim depths of 38.5mm in the front and 42.5 in the rear, the SES 3.4 is shallower than the NSW and Bontrager XXX 4. But they feel as fast or faster than the other wheelsets in this category not named Zipp or Bontrager and they laugh in the face of crosswinds.

ENVE rim brake wheels all use the same textured brake tracks. In my experience, they are top of the charts both in dry and wet conditions. The hub options sold with these new wheels – ENVE’s branded hubs with either an alloy or carbon shell (both which use Mavic’s Instant Drive 360 internals, a DT Swiss 240-like dual ratchet design), Chris King R45 and R45 ceramic – are all first-rate performers, rolling smoothly, engaging quickly and accelerating with the best of them.

Weight, free-wheel sound, rolling smoothness, long-term durability, and price are the things that separate these hubs but you can’t go wrong with any of them. I’m partial to the ENVE alloy hub. They’re quieter, the least expensive option (USD $2550) and need no maintenance. The ENVEs sold through European stores are often speced with Chris King models however and those are some of the smoothest rolling hubs you can find.

Wheelset quality, customer service, and warranty (5 years) are also exceptional.

The SES 3.4’s market price falls in between the 303 NSW and XXX 4 Best Performers. You can find the best prices from the best stores for the ENVE SES 3.4 by clicking these links to Merlin or directly from ENVE by clicking through this link to

If you are torn between buying a climbing and all-arounder, the SES 3.4 is the wheelset that doesn’t force you to choose.


The Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST is an update of the Cosmic Pro Carbon SL C, Mavic’s first medium depth rim brake wheelset using only carbon fiber and resins in its brake track. Previously, Mavic had put aluminum sleeves inside their carbon rims to provide alloy brake tracks that dispersed the heat generated from braking.

In going from the “SL C” to “SL UST” model, Mavic also widened the rims, put on new hubs, and built it to their new UST tubeless standard.

The result? The new Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST is a more comfortable, quieter, and more tubeless-ready wheelset. It’s clearly an improvement over the SL C it replaces that I reviewed previously with the headline – A strong, noisy performer at a good price.

The SL UST is 2mm wider than the SL C, and now 19mm across the inside of the rim (measured between the bead hooks). I could feel added comfort in the ride. This is especially so with the new Mavic Yksion Pro UST 25C tubeless tires that are made for Mavic by Hutchinson and that come pre-installed on the wheels and included in its price. Just add the sealant that also comes with the wheels and inflate.

Compared to the much-heralded original Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tires, tests of these new Yksion Pro show equivalent rolling and puncture resistance (see tubeless tire ratings here). In my experience, these tires also have a better road feel and their aerodynamics are better for this wheelset’s profile (and many others) than the Pro One. The mounted and inflated width for the 25C tire is a millimeter narrower than the Schwalbe and closer to the wheels’ 25.5mm external or brake track width.

Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST carbon road bike wheels

The Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST hubset is also new but, according to the word out among shop mechanics, is a knock-off of DT Swiss 240 hubs used on many other carbon road bike wheels. Whatever its design influence, the new Mavic hub is smoother and quieter than the noise created by the SL C hubs while retaining the distinctive Mavic freewheeling sound.

This is real progress if you care about freehub buzz. We’re talking about going from it’s really annoying; don’t buy it to something like it’s fine if you like to hear your freewheel spin.

Mavic continues with the same version of their textured brake track on this Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST wheelset that was used on the SL C. At the speeds I ride (18-20mph on an average training or group ride), I found it gives you good braking on dry pavement but is not very good on wet roads.

My fellow tester Nate rides considerably faster (23-26mph) and challenges wheelsets a good deal more. He was unimpressed with the braking power and heat dissipation of these wheelsets down long, steep alpine descents. We both noticed they squeal after warming up.

While these Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST wheels climb well enough, this kind of braking seriously dulls the reward you’ve earned climbing when you are looking to cash in doing a long downhill. They do handle well in the crosswinds you often find in high mountain passes or those coming across open spaces.

While they are clearly stiff when you want to turn up the speed or head up a ramp, these wheels aren’t lively. There’s no snap and little giddy-up when you want to accelerate or get out of the saddle.

They do hold their speed well once you get moving but nothing out of the ordinary. The same can be said for their handling – solid but not inspiring of aggressive riding in the corners.

Over the year or so that Mavic improved these wheels, other well-established wheel makers like Zipp, Bontrager, Roval and DT Swiss were also improving the design and performance of their carbon road bike wheels and introduced new or updated wheels in this category. The Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST didn’t keep up or catch up with the improvements made by their competitors.

The market price for this wheelset of around $2,100/£1,700/€2,000 puts it in a tough spot as it doesn’t match up against others in a similar price range. You can find and order it using these links to recommended store Planet Cyclery, and at other recommended stores at Know’s Shop.

You don’t have to spend a whole lot more to get much better performance and you can spend a lot less and get performance as good. If you don’t have the budget for better-performing carbon road bike wheels or if you value Mavic’s extensive dealer network and aren’t going to ride them as hard as a Group A rider like Nate, then this solid if unexciting wheelset may work for you.

If you plan to buy these wheels, make sure you track down the Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST with all of those words and initials in the name in that order. Mavic’s model names are confusingly similar and it’s easy to find a very different wheelset with a very similar sounding name. For example, Mavic makes or, in some cases recently made a Cosmic Pro Carbon SL UST CL (a disc model), Cosmic Pro Carbon UST, a Cosmic Pro Carbon, a Cosmic Pro Carbon Exalith, and a bunch of other Cosmic blah blah blah models that are different wheelsets than the one with I’ve reviewed here.

Now you know…


Roval uses the same rim, hub internals, and spokes on its CLX 50 disc and rim brake bikes. The review below is excerpted from my write-up of their disc brake model.

The Roval CLX 50 rim and disc brake wheels share the same profile – width, depth, shape, tubeless-ready, rim bed, etc.  Sure, the two wheels have different spoke counts and hubs but even the hubs have the same DT Swiss 240 internals with ceramic bearings.

While many of the first two generations of road disc wheels were optimized for rim brakes and tweaked for discs, this one appears to suit both formats well, if not necessarily optimized for either. It may straddle the Gen 2/3 road disc wheel characteristics I laid out earlier, but these compete on performance (and specs) with the latest Gen 3 all-around wheels.

Yes, these road disc wheels are heavier than their rim brake brothers, but the CLX 50 disc brake wheelset, at a measured weight of 1457 grams, is one of four wheelsets in this review coming in at under 1500 grams. So, it’s not sacrificing anything by being a rim twin with its rim-brake brother.

[By the way, the 1415 gram claimed weight is probably without rim tape. I and several others that have reviewed this wheelset and actually weighed it all come in somewhere between 1440 and 1460 grams, likely due to whether we ran the tape around once or twice.]

Roval CL 50 Carbon carbon road bike wheels

The Roval CLX 50 has a modern aerodynamic profile and maintains your momentum well. It’s what you should expect from 50mm deep wheels that will set you back US$2400, £1870, €2200 as these will. Not all wheels deliver speed even at that price that but these clearly do.

They remain stable and easily handle in the crosswinds. These will tell you they are feeling the wind but they won’t jerk around on you. A light, steady touch on the tiller will keep them on course.

They also accelerate and climb better than most. While the weight difference between the CLX 50 and ENVE 3.4 is a minimal 50 or so grams, I felt a little more comfortable on the ENVEs on a blustery day of climbing and descending. But, the Roval isn’t far behind.

Perhaps it’s because the ENVEs are 10mm shallower that they handle the crosswinds so amazingly well. On the flip side, the Rovals are faster on the flats if you are riding at speeds where aero really matters – >20mph or 32kph.

The CLX 50 is stiff but not overly so. Likewise, they are compliant and handle well, on par with many of the wheelsets in this review.

Run them tubeless and lower your pressure if you want maximum comfort. Toss the plastic spoke hole plugs they come with and run rim tape if you want minimum hassle installing tubeless tires. The tires can get hung up on the plugs and make installing and removing them a whole lot more work than anyone should have to do to enjoy cycling.

About the rim brake CLX 50 … Reports from other testers found the rim braking on these wheels adequate but not on par with those made with textured brake tracks. Actual weight measurements of these wheels run from 1408 to 1429 to 1438 grams vs. a claimed weight of 1375 grams.

You can buy them using these links to Competitive Cyclist and Know’s Shop to see where you can buy the CLX 50 wheels online at stores I recommend because of their superior price, selection, and customer satisfaction ratings.

*      *      *      *      *

Thank you for reading. Please let me know what you think of anything I’ve written or ask any questions you might have in the comment section below.

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Thanks and enjoy your rides safely! Cheers, Steve

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First published on October 14, 2018. Date of the most recent major update shown at the top of the post.


  • Hi Steve,

    Having just completed my second longest ride in over a decade (120km / 30kph / 900m elevation – hardly Le Tour !!) I thought I would relax in front of the computer and dream about some new kit. Stumbled across your website – wow, what a breath of fresh air. The effort you must put in to creating such an informative and well thought out source of information is much appreciated, thank you very much for doing what you do.

    By way of background, at the moment I am using a 2015 Cervelo S3 with Campag Chorus mechanical and Euros wheels with 25mm continental clincher tyres here in the UK. Feels a bit like I am getting beaten up on rougher roads, not helped by my lack of padding !

    I am looking to put together a bike to ride in the Pyrenees that will basically live out there. A little information – I am 61kg, 49 years old, FTP of 3.9w/kg, am (supposedly) built for climbing (so long as we’re talking recreational level !) but am a truly rubbish descender lacking confidence / experience. Have been thinking of something like a Trek Emonda SLR, Cervelo R3 or the new Cervelo Caledonia 5. Would be fitted with Ultra Di2 groupset on tubeless disc wheels. For the latter was thinking about Enve 3.4 (or the 3.4AR if that was felt better for dodgy road surfaces) , new Zipp 303 Firecrest or Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37 – but open to suggestions, I’m no expert. Having ridden some smaller hills over there a few weeks ago I had not realised just how rubbish some of the roads are over there so I hope to bring my bike technology into the present day in terms of comfort levels !

    I would like a wheel that would be perfectly happy spending most of the time around the lower slopes, doing 50km rides involving quite a bit of ups and downs, but would equally excel for the “big days out” I dream of into the major cols (Peyresourde, Tourmalet etc – before I get too old !!) Could imagine riding 28m tyres on the understanding this will help with my comfort although I will not be riding gravel / off road (apart from the gravel I seemed to discover all over some of the minor roads on my last trip !).

    Thank you in advance of your guidance, would really appreciate you being kind enough to offer a couple of options on the wheel front (plus any other advice welcome !!). Understand that perhaps you have not got your hands on the new Zipp 303 firecrest – can see that was the case in some posts around June/July time.

    Sorry this has rambled on a bit – hoped giving you as much background info as possible would help.

    Kind regards


    • Charles, Congrats on the big ride and more to come on a new bike. You mentioned all the wheels I would consider for the kind of riding and bike you describe. I’ve reviewed the ENVE 3.4 disc, 3.4 AR and Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37 here While I haven’t been able to test the new Zipp 303 Firecrest, I really wouldn’t think of it as climbing wheelset. The only other thing I’d suggest would not be to jump to 28mm tires for any wheelset narrower than 30mm external rim width. With the right 25mm tubeless tire and pressure, you’ll be plenty comfortable on even rough pavement. At 28C you’ll be more comfortable but your downhill descending speed will be negatively impacted by tire wider than rim. More about that in my tubeless tire review. Steve

      • Hi Steve,

        The new 303 firecrests seem awfully close to the 3.4s (lighter, just as shallow at 40mm both front and rear) so would have thought of them as 3.4 competitors – in which review group would you place them if/when you review them?


        • Grant, Hard to know until I review them. Unfortunately, they’re hard to find currently. Specs like width, weight, etc. doesn’t determine performance. Hope to be better able to answer your question at some point. Steve

  • Hi Steve
    Thanks so much for the great website- invaluable!
    I hoped you might give your thoughts on a choice between two wheels sets in terms of which is likely to be fastest. I realise it probably won’t be a data -based answer
    I have two wheel sets for my 2018 emonda slr and each week struggle with the question of which use for racing.
    1. Enve gen 2 3.4 ( Chris king) currently running conti gp4000 rs 25 mm
    2. Bontrager Aeolus 5 running Vitoria corsa 25 mm tubulars
    Assume good roads and light winds and a rolling course ( 600 m climbing over 60 km)
    Do you have an instinct as to which is a better choice?
    For reference I’m light at 61 kg and a decent all rounder with a 4.4 w/kg FTP
    Thanks mate

  • David, While a capable all-around wheelset, the ENVE 3.4 gives up aero performance as a shallower, lighter wheel than most all-arounders to excel in the mountains. Conversely, the Bontrager Aeolus 5 is a drag racer, best at high speeds (22mph/35kph and up) on the flats but is notably heavier on longer hills. 600 m in 60 km isn’t terribly steep or flat unless most of it is flat with a few big steeps along the way. For a given race, ask yourself where the selection is going to be made. If it’s on a climb, you might want to go with the 3.4 and hide in the draft of the bunch to make up for the lesser aero benefit of the shallower wheels and the extra power you’d use if you are out in the wind. If you are pulling for teammates and in the wind a lot or it’s a sprint finish, the Aeolus 5 would take less energy/watts to maintain your speed and be faster at the end. At 61 kg and 4.4 w/kg, you may be better suited to races where climbing is key or where there is an uphill finish. No doubt, a 270 watt FTPs is impressive but bigger riders even at 3.5 or 4 w/kg may be better suited to powering a heavier wheelset like the Aeolus 5. But here again, it depends what kind of field you are riding in and what your role is in the race. If you are doing crits, bigger riders are going to have the advantage even with you on the Aeolus 5. If you are doing road races with similar-sized riders, you may be fine with the Aeolus 5. It’s all situational. Steve

    • Thanks for the comprehensive reply Steve
      To clarify further the average speed in my race is likely to be around 38 kmh and the Aeolus 5 tubulars are lighter than the enve 3.4 by a couple of hundred grams with the tyres
      You answered my question which really was about the aero benefit of the 5 vs 3.4
      In true mountain races or events the 3.4 no question are my go to
      Thanks again

  • Steve, I am spending way too much time on your website as there is too much good information. I bought the XXX4 wheels after reading your review, but I am still inside my “30-day unconditional guarantee” and I am still debating on the NSWs. I am a 112 pound male at 5’2″, so I was looking for crosswind stability. I have taken the XXX4 out in 13 mph winds and I feel that me and the entire bike are blown around no more than than my stock DT swiss wheels, which have no rim depth. I got caught on a major state route and trucks going west at 60 mph and me going east at 25 mph caused a little twitching, but to my surprise, I was able to handle it, so the XXX4 are doing their job! For some reason, I actually feel more stable on the XXX4 than the slightly lower weight DT Swiss wheels. But my two other goals for the wheels are
    1. to be able to ride slightly faster in 26 mile relatively flat group ride (we average 22 mph)
    2. gain more control and comfort over rough roads (not gravel) for 40 -100 miles. Wouldn’t the XXX4’s 23 internal width with 25 mm tires be better than the the NSW’s 19 mm internal rim width with 23 mm tire for goal #2? And at 22 mph, would I really gain much speed with the NSW over the XXX4 for my 26 mile group ride. I am probably overthinking this but would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

    • Michael, Haha, sorry about the time it’s taking for you to read the site. We enthusiasts do like to get into it. As to your questions… 1) There are so many variables – fitness, sleep, mindset, body positioning, drafting, rolling resistance (especially in a group ride), shifting technique, riding experience, bike, wheels, kit etc. – that you can’t attribute any single thing to a specific amount of speed increase. Would suggest you read my posts on how to ride faster starting with this one and work through them to get faster. 2) XXX4 internal width is 21mm (not 23mm) but yeah, wider tires on wider rims inflated to lower pressure is going to give you better handling and comfort on rough and smooth roads. As to speed, you could put one of the narrower 25C tubeless tires (Schwalbe Pro One TLE, Hutchinson Fusion 5 11 Storm, new 25C Bontrager R3) on the NSW and get nearly the same rim to tire width ratio as on the XXX4 for optimum aero performance. The marginal difference wouldn’t have any effect on your speed in a group ride relative to all the other factors at play. Steve

  • Steve,

    Chris again. So, here’s a tough question. For the rim brake version with the new ZR1 hub, would you think that it is worth spending the extra for the 303NSW v’s the 303 Firecrest now? The price difference is still material but it seems like the only difference is the hubs now. Thanks again.

    • Chris, That’s hard to say. Clearly the hubs are different between the two but I don’t know how different the carbon layups are and how the rim/hub/spoke systems compare when riding them. Stiffness, responsiveness, compliance, etc. could be very different even with the same width, depth, weight, etc. specs on the two wheels. Steve

  • I have two questions. You regularly comment on a wheel’s (vertical) compliance and the resulting added riding comfort. It seems to me that wheels are rather stiff things whereas the tires mounted on them are very much “softer”. Especially now that much lower tire pressures are the vogue as opposed to the 100-120 psi commonly used in the past (including by me). It seems to me the give in the vertical direction of the wheel should be pretty much irrelevant compared to the give in the tire. What am I missing? (I’m considering upgrading from my Zondas to Enve 3.4. Bike is a Colnago C64.)

    Are you familiar with Lightweight wheels? (German made wheels that start at twice the price of, say, Enve 3.4!) Have you any experience with them? Rumor has it that they’re the preferred wheels in the peloton, when the riders can get away with it. (Sponsors may have a problem with someone else’s wheels on “their” bike.) Are they better but way beyond diminishing returns or just really good but too expensive for we mere mortals?

    • Peter, While you can certainly make your ride more or less compliant by the choice of your tire model, width, or pressure, a performance-oriented enthusiast should make those choices based on a combination of factors like aero performance, handling, rolling resistance, puncture resistance, etc. That’s why I personally don’t put a 28mm tire on any road wheelset that rolls, which seems to be the default for a lot of people these days looking for more comfort. Wider tires and lower tire pressure can give you more compliance but you may trade-off worse aerodynamics, handling, and rolling resistance, for example. So for a given wheelset, rider weight, and rider performance requirements, the tire model, width, and pressure will be optimized and fixed given what you want to do on that day.

      Wheelset compliance is also relatively fixed and depends on the rim materials and design (e.g. layup), the spokes, the hub flange diameter, spoke angles, spoke tension, and other design and manufacturing things that are unique to each wheelset.

      At the extremes of too much or too little tire pressure for the kind of performance you want, tires will dominate the compliance you feel. Any road wheel will feel compliant at say 40 psi and uncomfortable at 120 but the former won’t handle well and the latter will sap energy (watts) from your body that you could be putting into the drivetrain.
      However, at a given tire pressure in the range where an enthusiast will want to optimize their performance, you do notice differences in the compliance of different wheels. Even though rims, spokes, and hubs are, by themselves stiffer materials than the rubber in tires, the assembled combination of those wheel components does lead to more or less vertical (and lateral) stiffness.

      Lightweight brand wheels are true to their name relative to other road wheels. They could have been named Expensive as some run 2x the highest priced Zipp, ENVE, Campagnolo, and other top-of-their-line carbon wheels. I’ve not ridden them before but one of the guys in my club does and I’ve passed other wheels to him to test and compare. By comparison, the Lightweights are far more laterally stiff and responsive. (They are also narrower and less compliant even with tubeless tires.) He’s not a climber (more of a sprinter) but I imagine they are also lighter in the way that going from clinchers to tubular are. So the returns are notable if you are fit enough to notice and ride at a level where those performance differences matter, or if you want others to know you’ve got the coin to spend on wheels. Otherwise, the returns would only be diminishing in the sense of diminishing your bank account but not in changing your ride performance. Steve

      • Steve:

        Thank you for your considered response. The Lightweight wheels were never a consideration for me. I was just curious. I have heard they are preferred by pros for whom comfort comes well after what I believe you identified as apparently their primary benefit best summarized in one word: responsiveness.

        As I mentioned I presently ride Campy Zonda (newer 17 mm version). I’m wondering about the Enve 3.4. The price difference of the Enve over the Zonda approaches that of the Lightweight over the Enve! Of course, only I can decide if the price differential is worth it to me. You have identified the Zonda as the best value wheelset and the Enve as the best performer climbing wheelset. I live in Colorado and ride big hills often with lots of fast tight turns. (A little faster going down than up ;->) So, is the Enve a little or a lot better wheelset? Thanks.

  • Hi Steve and thanks for the great work you are doing for us! I am owner of a s-works tarmac sl6 with a pair of zipp 303 firecrest rim wheel set 2019 model. Now I found on my lbs a pair of roval clx 50 in a very good price and i am thinking to go for it. I am considering the tubeless option that I have with roval but I am skeptical about breaking performance. I am riding in mixed terrain and put around 2-3k uphill meters per week. What’s your opinion about my “dilemma”?

  • Bohdan Kaminski

    great article, can you advise on the Zipp (or different brand) hook less rim I believe 454 NSW series and hook rim 404

    • Bohdan, Zipp currently only makes hookless rims in their 303 S, 303 Firecrest and 353 NSW wheels. ENVE makes hookless rims on their SES 4.5 and 3.4 AR and ENVE 45 and 65 Foundation series wheels. I expect more hookless rim wheels to be announced this summer. These are all disc brake wheels. I don’t expect we’ll see hookless rims on rim brake wheels. Use the search bar at the top of any page to find my reviews on the wheels I’ve mentioned above except for the Zipp 353 which we are testing now but haven’t yet reviewed. Steve

  • Hi Steve. Have you tested or have any feedback on the Zipp 303 Firecrest rim brake wheelset and the Metron 40SC rim brake wheelset?

    • Matt, I haven’t tested either of those wheelsets. This post reviews the carbon rim brake wheelsets I have tested. You can always use the search bar at the top of every page to see if I’ve reviewed or mentioned wheels or any products you may be interested in. Steve

  • Hi Steve,
    Do you think the new 2022 Zipp 454 NSW wheels are an upgrade for Roval CLX50? Can they match Roval speed on flats?
    I am riding a Venge typically flat routes alone averaging 38 39 km/h

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