BEST CLIMBING WHEELS FOR RIM BRAKE BIKES – 2017

I review the latest carbon clincher climbing wheels for rim brake bikes, explain why they are the right choice for some riders, tell you which I like and don’t, and why.

I must admit, before I began the research for this review I didn’t get why someone who wanted dedicated climbing wheels would buy carbon clinchers.

If you do uphill road races with names like Deadman’s Ascent and Climb to the Heavens or regularly ride in a range like the Sierras or Pyrenees, I’d think you’d want the absolute lightest of everything, including your wheels.  That would mean going with tubulars, not clinchers.

Likewise, if you aren’t the kind of rider that likes to brake late going into switchbacks and accelerate hard coming out of them or you aren’t that excited about reaching 80 km/hr (50mph) down mile-long 8 to 12% grades or you are planning your first week-long cycling vacation in the Dolomites or Rockies, then wheels with alloy brake tracks rather than carbon ones are probably better for you.

Yet leading wheel makers from A to Zipp including Bontrager, Campagnolo, ENVE, Fulcrum, Mavic, and Roval make carbon clincher climbing wheels.

What’s going on?

In this review I look at the latest group of carbon clincher climbing wheels (or CCCs) from those 8 leading wheel makers, explain why they are the right choice for some riders, tell you which I like and don’t and why, and link you to where you can find them in stock, at the best prices and from online stores with high customer satisfaction ratings.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Click on any red statement below to go directly to that part of the post

What carbon clinchers are today

Who carbon clincher climbing wheels are for

What matters most in deciding between climbing wheels

Two climbing wheels rate as the “Best”

How climbing wheels compare on price, performance and specs

WHY TRUST THIS SITE AND MY RECOMMENDATIONS

In The Know Cycling is for road cycling enthusiasts like you and me who want to know what gear we should get next and where we can get it at the best prices from great stores.  I do hours of testing and analysis across an entire category of cycling gear for each review and incorporate insights from other independent reviewers and riders I respect.  I respond to most any question you have in the comment section of each post, usually within a few hours if I’m not on a long ride or sleeping (Eastern US time).

To eliminate potential bias, I don’t accept ads of any kind and don’t post press briefings rewritten as “first look” reviews or articles paid for by bike companies or stores.  I buy or demo and return all the gear I and my fellow testers evaluate, don’t go on company-paid product review trips, and don’t offer or charge for special access to any of the content on this site.  My only influence is what I think would be best for my fellow roadies.  This is my passion, not a business.

The site is supported by a simple and transparent model.  I find and provide you regularly updated links to the lowest priced product listings for the gear I’ve reviewed at online stores that have the highest customer satisfaction ratings among the 100 or so I track.  When you click on and buy something through one of those links, some of the stores (though not all) will pay the site a small commission that goes into gear and site costs.  You save time and money while supporting the creation of independent reviews written for road cycling enthusiasts and it doesn’t cost you a thing.  If you prefer to buy your gear at a local bike shop, you can support the site with a contribution here or buy anything through these links to Amazon or eBay.  Thank you.

WHAT CARBON CLINCHERS ARE TODAY

The first generation of carbon clincher wheelsets rightly earned a horrible reputation.  They were fragile and subject to cracking or worse for no apparent reason.  They squealed when you put on the brakes.  They slowed, but never really stopped your bike in the rain.  And the heat generated from excessive braking going downhill could cause blown tubes and warped rims.

If you’ve been riding for any length of time, you’ve probably heard stories from fellow riders who’ve had some of these experiences or had them yourself.  It’s hard to erase those from your memory.

What’s changed?

The best climbing wheels come from companies that are now somewhere in their third or fourth generation of making carbon clinchers.  While it’s hard not to forget what those first generation wheels were like, the current generation product from established wheelset makers is very different.  (Note that bargain-priced, no-name carbon clinchers made in open molds are usually first or second generation wheelsets and I wouldn’t recommend them for riding in the mountains or even on the flats.)

I’ll spare you the tech talk and marketing mumbo jumbo about what’s changed and how much better today’s carbon clinchers are.  In simple terms, the latest generations of carbon rims from the best wheel makers use resins and manufacturing processes that make carbon clinchers more durable than alloy ones and their rims resistant to overheating in all but the most abusive braking situations.  Better brake pads have greatly reduced and, in most cases, eliminated brake noise and are also part of dissipating the heat created at the rims.

The latest generation of brake pads and brake track finishes have brought the dry weather braking performance of carbon clinchers on par with alloy wheels and wet weather braking within range.

Best climbing wheels

Carbon clinchers require different braking technique than alloy ones

As riders, we have also adopted braking techniques that serve us well when riding carbon clinchers the same way any group of riders adapts to new products that can improve our performance.  For example,  TT riders have changed their body position using aero bars and enthusiasts are training differently to benefit from power meters.

Specifically, I and others who have learned how to get the best out of carbon clinchers don’t drag the brakes when riding downhill as many riders will when braking on alloy wheels.  We also alternate braking the front and back wheels.  Doing this should allow you to give each wheel 2-4x the amount of time cooling as braking.

We engage the brakes firmly and get off them quickly rather than ease into it and hold them a bit longer as with alloys.  In the rain, we know to give ourselves a little more time and we brake a little harder when we first get on them to clear the water from the brake tracks.

Do you need to do this?  Not totally.  I’ve tested current generation carbon clinchers on 8%, 1 mile downhill stretches dragging the brakes the whole way and they aren’t even warm to the touch at the bottom.  I’ve also used carbon clinchers with textured brake tracks on flat stretches in the rain and, with the best ones, you can’t tell a whole lot of difference compared to braking on alloy wheels.

Should you adopt these techniques?  Absolutely.  It just so happens that they maximize both your performance and the longevity of your wheels.  You don’t go out and buy a carbon clincher wheelset that enables you to go faster just so you can drag your brakes going downhill.  That would be like going out and buying an aero bike and seldom getting in the drops or buying a power meter and not changing your training.

Has your view changed?

When I wrote my first post on climbing wheels, it was a three calendar and model years ago.  While some of the carbon clinchers were much improved then, not all wheel makers had adopted some of the improved resins, manufacturing techniques, brake track treatments and pads I wrote about above.  And none of the CCC (carbon clincher climbing) wheels I’ve reviewed in this post had been introduced.

So yes, my views have changed about using carbon clinchers in the mountains along with the improved and recently introduced wheelsets.  If you’re interested, I wrote a post titled 5 Beliefs About Choosing Cycling Gear I’ve Dropped which describes this and other beliefs I’ve changed on gear weight, crosswinds, power meters and hand-built wheels.

Are tubulars still better than carbon clinchers for climbing?

Tubulars are definitely lighter than clinchers, typically by 150-200 grams, an amount you’ll notice.  So if you are racing, this can gain you a second or two a mile going up long, steep climbs.

On the other hand, if you don’t feel that amount of time savings is worth the extra work of gluing on tubeless tires and the added time you might need to spend dealing with them if you have a flat on the road, then clinchers are the way you want to go.

As I discussed above, current generation carbon clinchers no longer have the overheating issues that used to put them at a disadvantage to tubulars.  In fact, you could argue that a bad (or even a good) tubular glue job on a particularly hot day in the mountains might result in the tubulars coming off their rims, as has been known to happen.  I really don’t want to go there for the purposes of this post other than to say that it’s probably as real a possibility as someone cooking a current generation set of top carbon clinchers after dragging their brakes for miles down an alpine descent.

Actually, I’d probably go tubeless with my CCC wheels rather than tubular or tube & tire.  If you’ve done any serious climbing, it’s just a reality that many mountain roads aren’t in great shape.  They don’t hold up well with the winter weather most see and aren’t maintained as well as more heavily traveled main roads or tourist mountain routes (and who wants to ride those!).  Fortunately, most of the CCC wheels I’ve reviewed are tubeless ready.

Are alloy wheels still safer than carbon clinchers for descending?

If you are unsure or have doubts about carbon clincher brake tracks or your ability to ride downhill safely due to descending speeds, road traffic, switchbacks or riding technique, go with alloy climbing wheels. You can read my reviews of alloy upgrade wheels that you can also use in the mountains here.  Your level of confidence is probably the most important factor in riding safely.

best climbing wheels

Unsure if CCCs are for you? Go with alloy wheels for climbing instead.

That said, by modifying your braking technique in the ways I’ve described above and a little experience, I think CCC wheels are equally safe and offer you potentially greater benefits going downhill and uphill.

Carbon is stiffer and more responsive than alloy.  This will help your handling going downhill and translate your power more efficiently going uphill.

Carbon wheels also tend to be lighter, probably about 100-150 grams than alloy wheels of the same depth.  This can make a big difference in your climbing performance, all else being equal.  [“All else” includes your body weight, the weight of the stuff you carry on your bike, your bike weight, your training, your conditioning, your diet, your rest, etc. You can improve your climbing performance by making changes in all of those areas far more than getting lighter wheels.]

Finally, the better CCC wheels are wider than your average alloy wheelset.  This will allow you to ride a 25C tire downhill with better comfort and stability and handle better and with more confidence going in and out of corners.

Alloy wheels will run you about half the price as CCC wheels.  Tubulars will cost nearly as much.  So there’s that to consider as well.

WHO CARBON CLINCHER CLIMBING WHEELS ARE FOR

To state the obvious, CCC wheels are for climbers.  And by climbers, I mean those spending hours going up and down 7%, 8% and even steeper pitches that go on for kms or miles at a time.

I don’t mean those of us who regularly ride “rollers”, those 4-5%, quarter mile or km hills that might total 5 kms or miles during the course of a 40 to 75 km or mile ride that might also include a half km or even a half mile climb that averages 7% during your ride.

Yes, you could certainly ride CCC wheels on those kinds of rides to give you some advantage going up steeper sections.  But you have to ask yourself whether what you gain on the hills with CCC wheels is worth what you lose on the flatter sections and downhills not riding a more aero, 40-50mm deep all-around.

My experience?  I really miss the deeper wheelset on the flats and going down the rollers when I’m riding CCC wheels or any lower profile wheelset on all but the steepest climbs and long rides.

For example, I did a 125 mile/200 km long ride last year with 8500 feet/2600 meters of climbing on a 25mm deep, 1350 gram CCC wheels that included two steep, long, tough alpine climbs that exceeded 12% on average.  The CCC wheels were great on those climbs, the best I had ridden from that model year, but I think I worked just as hard if not harder trying to keep up with the group on the far more frequent flat and rolling sections because I didn’t have deeper wheels.

I also did a steeper, shorter route, a 100 mile/160 km ride with about 11,000 feet/3350 meters of climbing this year on a set of 1425 gram, 33mm deep set of CCC wheels.  It seemed that I was always climbing or going downhill on that ride and I’m glad I was riding those wheels.

What about riding a deeper set of carbon clinchers in the mountains?  Is it worth getting CCC wheels at all?

I’ve done a 135 mile/220km ride with 8100 feet/2500 meters of vertical each of the last three years with different, top performing wheels ranging from 38mm deep, 1470 gram all-arounds to 48mm deep, 1575 gram aero wheels.  They all climbed fine, though certainly not as easy as the lightest CCC wheels would have.  Let’s just say it wasn’t the wheels that were holding me back on the climbs.

On the flatter sections of the route, and there were far more of those, the deeper, more-aero wheels were clearly the right choice.

Where I ride and even when I do all but the steepest of the kind of 100+ mile long events like those I’ve just described, all-around carbon clinchers are the way to go.  More about the best of those wheels in my review here.

Climbing wheels

If you do a lot of riding in the mountains, yeah, you’ll want wheels designed for climbing

If on the other hand, I lived at the foot of or regularly visited the Rockies, Sierras, Pyrenees, Alps, etc., I’d definitely go with CCC wheels.  As you’ll see, some of the newest CCC wheel models are about 50-100g heavier, 10-15mm deeper and shaped to provide aero benefit.  If their stiffness, rolling, handling and other performance factors are first-rate, they outperform traditional light weight, low profile climbing wheels.

Of course, you could always have a support vehicle follow you and do a quick change to your CCC wheels when you hit the big mountains and switch back when you get off them.  What?  Your friends or spouse not into that?  Mine either.

Regardless, CCC wheels are also for those of you with deep pockets (and good spousal relations… or spouse-free riders).  A CCC wheelset may often be a third or fourth one in your quiver.  You may still have your stock wheels that came with your bike or another alloy set you use for all-weather training.  You may also have a mid or aero depth carbon clincher (or both) for most of your training, group riding, road racing or TT riding.  As most of these CCC wheels cost at least $2000/£1500/€2000 and many run half again more, it’s not a purchase for those trying to stick to a cycling budget.  Lucky you!

SELECTION CRITERIA

So if you believe weight is the primary benefit of riding a dedicated climbing wheelset, is that the primary criteria to choose between them?  Far from it.

When I evaluate wheels, I look at four groups of selection criteria and about 20 specific ones within those groups.  You can read all about those here.

Immediately below, I’ve highlighted which of those criteria are relatively more important for wheels you’ll want on long, steep climbs and descents.

What matters - Selection Criteria

As you can see from the criteria I’ve emphasized for picking wheels for the mountains, half of them – aerodynamics, compliance, braking, and rim profile – are not criteria you would consider in choosing what has been traditionally thought of as a ‘climbing wheel’.  These are important characteristics to ride fast and confidently on the high speed, steep descents you’ll experience going down a long mountain pass.

In these situations, you’ll want aerodynamic wheels for max speed with rim profiles that keep the bike stable in crosswinds.  While most dedicated climbing wheels are lower profile than all-arounds, you can still shape the rims to reduce drag and cheat the crosswinds.

You’ll also want wheels that are compliant going down often rough alpine roads and handle well as you are whipping through the switchbacks.  You’ll want to be able to brake reliably at high downhill speeds and in all weather conditions and you don’t want any fading or degradation in braking on long descents.

For climbing, you might as well take advantage of lightweight wheels but you also want ones that transfer your energy into power as effectively as possible.  That’s why stiffness is emphasized.  When you are cranking out 250-400 watts trying to keep upright going up grades ranging from 7% to 15% for what seems like forever, you want stiff wheels and the right spoke count for your weight to convert as much of your effort as possible to the road.

As I hope you can see, you have different and equally important needs going up and going down a long, steep mountain and weight is only one of many considerations.  That’s why I think climbing wheels is a misnomer and you should really think about these as both climbing and descending wheels.

Finding wheels that accomplish all of this requires some trade-offs.  Very light wheels aren’t usually the stiffest, for example.  And, aerodynamic wheels to some mean deep dish rims which aren’t usually the best at handling on windy mountain descents.

There are also some things that you really don’t want to compromise on.  Older carbon clinchers have no place on long downhills where you need to do a lot of braking as they can overheat, warp, ruin the wheels and result in a blowout at speed.  The CCC wheels reviewed here represent the latest generation of carbon wheels from established wheel makers that don’t have these issues if you don’t drag your brakes.

As I believe 90% or more of road cycling enthusiasts aren’t going to mess with tubular tires, you only want to be riding carbon clinchers with the latest generation of high-temperature resins, textured or etched brake track treatments, and brake pads designed and chosen to work with the rims for best heat and water dissipation performance.  This is where the material choice criterion comes into play.

The heavier you are, the more these criteria matter because you’ll be putting more energy into the bike going up and will travel at higher speeds and create more braking energy going down.  A rider weighing 190lbs or 200lbs or more will want a stiffer wheelset than a 150lb rider with the same power output per kilogram.  He will also need more room to brake.

On the other hand, the lighter rider will be more prone to get pushed around on a windy descent if the wheel’s profile doesn’t handle crosswinds well and will benefit more from an aerodynamic profile that cuts through both crosswinds and the apparent wind created going down a mountain.  None of these CCC wheels here are so deep as to really have a big problem but some are shaped better than others so as to have no problem.

Looking to the pro racing circuit for guidance on climbing and descending wheels is a mistake.  The best climbers typically weigh 135 to 145 lbs, have 6% or less body fat, and are riding tubular rims on super-light, super-stiff bikes. They also have support vehicles to give them different wheels during the race depending on the terrain.

I’d guess many male road cycling enthusiasts are 160lbs to 190lbs, have 15-20% body fat (the amount for a “fit body type”), are on clinchers, and more often are riding comfortable endurance bikes than stiffer race bikes.  Sorry to say, the pros and we amateurs live in two different worlds.

Even those of you lighter men and women with natural climber body types, <10% body fat, 4+ w/kg ratios and on very stiff racing bikes will still finish 10-20% (3-6 minutes on an hour ride) behind pro level racers on the most challenging climbs.  You can draw on lessons from the pros but buying the same wheels they ride hoping to get a far better result is not likely.  If you could buy their genetics, you’d have a better shot.

So with all that as background, let me share with you my evaluation of the best carbon climbing clinchers currently available.

HOW CLIMBING WHEELS COMPARE



Best Performer

ENVE SES 3.4 – SUPERIOR STIFFNESS, AERO AND BRAKING PERFORMANCE IN A CLIMBING WHEELSET

When ENVE introduced the second generation SES 3.4 wheelset as “climbing wheels with an aero advantage”, it seemed like we were being fed a new product with an identity crisis.  The first generation SES 3.4 were all-around wheels.  And, ENVE also has the SES 2.2 climbing wheels in their lineup, ones I’ve previously evaluated and rated the Best Performer in my first review of carbon clinchers for climbing.

Well, I don’t know what will become of the SES 2.2 but the SES 3.4 are better climbing wheels.  And, while you can use the 3.4 as all-around wheels, they aren’t fast enough to compete well with the leading ones in that category.

Anyway, those product line issues aren’t for me or you to worry about.  What I have concluded, however, is that these second generation SES 3.4 wheels rate Best Performer of all the carbon clincher climbing wheels I’ve evaluated.

Simply put, the ENVE SES 3.4 perform better than other wheelsets on most of the performance criteria that matter in choosing climbing wheels.

Nate (our hill and mountain climbing specialist), Moose (our 200lb/90kg rouleur), and I (middle-aged, middling B-group rider and climber) all gave these ENVE wheels a go each on different, mountain climbing adventures we had planned during the test period. Our takeaways weren’t unanimous (that would be unusual), though, for each of the performance criteria, we pretty consistently rated the SES 3.4 better or on par with the other climbing wheels.

Nate and I, both in the 150lb/68kg weight range found the wheels incredibly stiff.  Nate, whose watt/kg are so good that he finished 10th overall and podiumed in his age group his first time doing the Mt. Washington Hill Climb this year, rated the SES 3.4 stiffness top of the charts compared to the many climbing and all-around wheels he’s ridden.

I couldn’t flex them at all. Everything I had seemed to go straight through my drive train, bike frame and these wheels to the road surface.  With other wheels on the same bike, that certainly isn’t the case.  If you have a somewhat flexy frame, as was the case with one of the bikes I was riding during this test, putting these wheels on will harden you the f-up.

Moose, on the other hand, whose power can probably flex a steel I-beam, didn’t find the ENVE SES 3.4 as stiff as a Campy Zonda, the stiffness benchmark for alloy wheels or even as stiff as some all-around wheelsets.  So, if you are a heavy guy looking for a dedicated climbing wheelset (an unlikely combination, I’ll admit), you may not find this, or any climbing wheelset stiff enough to your liking.

That same stiffness likely contributed to fantastic responsiveness and very good downhill handling.  These wheels tracked well and cornered confidently in high-speed turns.  We didn’t find them quite as precise or comfortable as a couple other wheelsets on test that were outstanding, but none of us had any hesitation riding them hard and fast on descents.  You can put on tubeless tires if you’ll be riding them on rough mountain roads or just want a more comfortable ride.

You also notice the clear aero advantages of the SES 3.4’s added rim depth and profiles going downhill.  Despite being the deepest of the wheels evaluated (38mm front, 42mm rear), they weren’t affected at all by crosswinds. Having ridden ENVE’s 10-15mm deeper SES 4.5 wheels with similar U front wheel and V rear wheel profiles with minimal crosswind effect, I’m not surprised at how well the SES 3.4 did in windy conditions.

Another huge plus for those of you who continue riding full-gas going downhill is how fast the SES 3.4 ride on gradual descents where you still need to be putting out tons of power to keep up with or ahead of those riding deeper wheels or who outweigh you.  I always hate when I can beat heavier riders to the top only to have them pass me going downhill. With the aero performance of these wheels, you stand a far better chance of getting to the top and the bottom ahead of your buds. And we all know how important that is!

What about weight, you may ask.  These are the heaviest wheels in this CCC category, right?  Well, yes and no.  Claimed weights are often notoriously understated and they are for most wheelsets in this review.  The ENVE 3.4 SES with Chris King hubs that we tested for this review actually measured about 20 grams less than the claimed weight, bringing it to within you-can’t-tell distance of nearly all the wheelsets in this review.

If you want a lighter version of these same wheels, and of course the wheel weight matters less than the rim weight (which ENVE is one of the few that publishes), you can whack off another 75 grams and add about 10% to the cost by ordering these with ENVE’s ceramic hubs.  I rode those hubs on the SES 2.2 and they are the smoothest rolling things I’ve ever experienced.  The ceramic hubs are also refreshingly silent while the Chris King hubs have that distinctive ratcheting sound when you freewheel that they could probably patent.  Personally, I prefer a quiet hub that more and more wheel makers seem to be moving to but I know the ratchet freewheel sound is more traditional.

Finally, there are the brakes.  While we certainly don’t use them going uphill and hate to use them going down, you do need to slow and brake from time to time going into corners, when there are cars or other riders on the road, in the occasional unexpected situation, and when your heart and head tell you are going too damn fast.

ENVE’s textured brake tracks on these and their other carbon rim brake wheels are simply the best around.  They are the equal if not better than any other carbon wheels on dry roads.  They are clearly and measurably better in wet conditions.

Yes, they sing a bit when you brake.  It’s a muted, predictable song, however, far different than the shrill shrieking, squealing or squeaking you get from some other wheels anytime you brake or that comes on more and more as the tracks heat up after repeated braking.

So, all in all, the ENVE SES 3.4 are complete and terrific wheels climbing and descending the steepest, longest mountain roads you’ll find and my selection as the Best Performer among carbon clincher climbing wheels.

As of November 16, 2017, you can find them the ENVE SES 3.4 rim brake wheels from the best stores at the best prices by clicking through to Competitive Cyclist and Tweeks Cycles

ZIPP 202 NSW – EXCELLENT HANDLING AND COMFORT WITH FIRST RATE BRAKING

There’s a lot to like about the Zipp 202 NSW.  It is light and very responsive, energetically following you when you don’t put out much effort.

Likewise, the 202 NSW handle confidently and comfortably going downhill, separating itself from other wheelsets with the ease at which it swoops in and out of switchbacks, with only a light touch on the handlebars required.

They brake confidently in the dry, as good as other wheelsets with a textured or etched brake track.  The hum of the friction created by the NSW’s textured surface against the Zipp brake pads is muted, quieter than the ENVE SES 3.4.  It was only down the steepest and longest of downhills, a 9 mile, 14.5 km descent with an average 5.5% grade that I got any squealing despite my hard and short on/off braking alternating the front and rear wheels, and only then in the last third of the descent.

On wet roads, the 202 NSW brake better than all other wheelsets in this review save for the ENVE which takes wet braking on carbon brake tracks to another level.

No, they aren’t any stiffer than average and don’t hold their speed on more gradual downhills as well as the ENVE SES 3.4 that I rated the Best Performer amongst climbing wheels.  But for me, a B-group rider that enjoys climbing at about 3 watts/kg, these are among the best climbing wheels I’ve evaluated.

If your profile is similar to mine, you can find these wheels at the best prices from stores with top customer satisfaction ratings by clicking on these links to Competitive Cyclist ITK10 and Tredz ITK10, Westbrook Cycles, Slane Cycles.

For stronger or more demanding road cycling enthusiasts, however, the Zipp 202 NSW lacks the top-rated stiffness and aero performance you’ll likely want.The average stiffness of these will make the most dedicated climbers like fellow tester Nate look for better options.  And, the limited aero benefit compared to climbing wheels that are trending deeper, wider and ultimately faster put the 202 NSW at a disadvantage for riders looking to get everything out of their descents.

Best Value

MAVIC KSYRIUM PRO CARBON SL C –VERY GOOD DRY ROAD BRAKING AND STIFFNESS AT A GREAT PRICE

Ever the conservative company, Mavic introduced its first two all carbon clincher wheelsets in 2016, years after most other leading wheelset companies had.  The Ksyrium Pro Carbon SL C is the climber of the two, the other being a 41mm deep all-around Cosmic Pro Carbon SL reviewed here.

The press always gets very excited when Mavic does something new and so my hype sensors go on full alert.  Why?  Mavic is the largest volume wheelset company, has a very well known brand name, has a very big retail network, and advertises a lot.

Mavic has historically also done some very innovative things like coming out with the first “system” wheels from one company where the rims, hubs, and spokes were designed, built and assembled with performance focused on an integrated wheelset rather than the sum-of-the-parts.  That was many years ago.

In recent years, they have also tried hard and less successfully to integrate tires into the system.  Most recently, they are attempting to greatly advance the ease and use of tubeless tires with a design that makes them far simpler to put on, seal and take off wheels made to more precise tolerances

Unfortunately, their innovation in the carbon wheelset arena has been lacking.

The big innovation hoo-hah Mavic has promoted around the Ksyruim all carbon climbing clincher wheels is their braking performance.  In my evaluation, however, while the braking may be an advance for Mavic, it’s on par with most of the other better braking wheelsets in this review on dry roads but distinctly behind ENVE’s and Zipp’s NSW textured brake tracks on wet ones.

So have a blast flying downhill full-out on these Ksyrium on a sunny, dry day.  They are certainly fun in those conditions. But, I’d recommend you don’t go downhill fast (or perhaps at all) on a wet day.  They are no better than last-generation carbon clinchers in those conditions and I’d hesitate to ride and of those or these on the flats, let alone downhill when it’s wet out.

They Ksyrium are also as stiff as any of the other climbing wheels in this review and, as such, transfer your power as if you were at one with the road (assuming your bike and drivetrain is also stiff).

On the flip side, it is the shallowest wheelset (25mm deep) in the group at the same time that climbing wheels all seem to be getting deeper.  While certainly not heavy, it’s no lightweight at 1440 grams measured (vs. 1390g claimed).  The stiffness makes it feel light and that’s what really matters.

Handling is good and confident.  The tires that come with it are acceptable though probably worth changing out for something better if you’ve got ’em.  The rear hub free-wheel sound is loud enough to let everyone around you know you are there, something I personally don’t prefer but probably useful in signaling other riders (and wild animals) that you are coming through.

The truly wonderful part about these wheels, along with their dry braking and stiffness, is their great price.  At an MSRP/RRP of $1800, £1,600, €1790 and less expensive still at recommended stores with the best pricing I’ve seen as of November 16, 2017 including Competitive CyclistChain Reaction CyclesProBikeKit UK ITK10, Slane, they are between a third to nearly half the price of the rest of the wheels in this review.  Combining the performance of this wheelset with a relatively low price is indeed an innovation and earns them my Best Value rating amongst all the climbing wheels in this review.

FULCRUM RACING ZERO CARBON – A PARTIALLY SUCCESSFUL TRANSFORMATION

The Fulcrum Racing Zero Carbon was designed to be a lighter, wider, carbon version of the popular alloy Fulcrum Racing Zero.  It has a similar performance mission – very stiff, highly responsive, confident handling – that the alloy model built its reputation around.

The carbon Zeros are very stiff indeed.  You turn the cranks and they go without hesitation, almost as if they are an extension of you.  The handling is precise and fun going through turns downhill. With these wheels, you almost feel like a drill sergeant giving orders that are immediately followed with impressive results by an enlisted soldier.

At the same time, they have a softer side.  The hubs roll smoothly and quietly as we’ve come to expect from Fulcrum parent Campagnolo’s USB ceramic hubs.

But, that’s as far as the successful performance transformation from alloy to carbon Racing Zero goes.

Braking in dry conditions on the carbon Zeros produces a shrieking headache of noise that made me want to avoid braking altogether.  The noise eased off to a modest but ongoing squeal after a while despite trying different amounts of brake pad toe-ing.  Shame, as they perform well and give you a confident feeling that you will slow you at the pace you want.

Do you need to bed these pads and brake tracks to make the noise go away, similar to what you do with a disc brake caliper and rotor?  If so, I’d like to know how.  Textured brake tracks and pads from the likes of Zipp and ENVE certainly are audible when you hit the brakes but no different over time and with never more than a predictable dulled sound.  In contrast, you get a higher pitched, irregular noise coming from these Racing Zero Carbon wheels.

As for braking on wet days?  You can try but with the carbon Zeros, don’t expect to stop anytime soon.

All of this is hard to comprehend as the Campagnolo Bora Ultras, which have the same braking treatment, performed much better and with little noise.  Perhaps it was the carbon or resins used or something with the lay-up process for this Fulcrum wheelset. Hard to know.

While I didn’t expect much aero performance from these rounded edge, box-shaped profile rims only 30mm deep, I didn’t expect them to catch as much crosswinds as they did.  And while they aren’t uncomfortable riding down a descent, they also aren’t as comfortable or ‘compliant’ as you can make other wheels by going tubeless at lower pressures for rougher mountain roads.  These rims aren’t recommended by Fulcrum for tubeless tires.  

The performance of these Fulcrum Racing Zero Carbon wheels makes me conclude that the transformation from alloy to carbon is incomplete.  Great stiffness, handling, and rolling likely come, at least in part, from the Zero alloy’s hub, flanges, spokes, and bracing angles more so than from the carbon rim.  The below-par braking and aerodynamics suggest that transformation from another or a new Fulcrum or Campy wheelset rim is needed.   

As with other Fulcrum and Campy wheels, the Fulcrum Racing Zero Carbon MSRP/RRP bark is worse than its actual market price bite, especially at ProBikeKit UK ITK10, Evans Cycles where you’ll find the best prices for these wheels.  They are priced similarly to the Mavic Ksyrium Pro Carbon SL C, but I’d put the Mavic’s performance ahead of these Fulcrum wheels.

CAMPAGNOLO BORA ULTRA 35 – A MISSED OPPORTUNITY TO STANDOUT

Campagnolo introduced their well-established Bora Ultra 35 wheelset in a carbon clincher model for the first time in 2015 along with making the entire Bora line wider (17mm inside, 24mm outside).  For these wheels, they also removed some of the resin on the brake track surface to expose the pads more directly to the carbon fibers for better bite and wet weather performance.

The improved braking performance is welcome in the mountains both in their ability to stop (duh!) but also to allow you to be more aggressive in and out of the turns, braking a little later than wheels that need more time to slow you as you approach the switchbacks.

The wheels are plenty stiff and responsive, though not out of the ordinary, both in and out of the saddle.  They do feel a bit less compliant than others, consistent with the feel of most Campy wheels.  Putting 25C tires on these 17C rims, something I wouldn’t normally recommend, added comfort and probably without a big hit to the aero performance that is already limited by Campy’s old school rim profile.

I included this wheelset in this comparative evaluation because it’s the shallowest carbon clincher that Campagnolo makes.  At 35mm, it along with the Aeolus 3 D3 have the deepest rims among those reviewed save for the ENVE 3.4.  Unlike the Aeolus however, the Bora’s rim doesn’t require tape (saving 25 grams or so grams per wheel) because the spokes don’t attach on the inside of the rims. (Note that Campy doesn’t recommend or support you running these tubeless though tires seal up rather easily to them).

Given this combination of depth and light weight, Campagnolo’s unwillingness to update their rim profile, or perhaps their lack of rim design expertise to do so, is disappointing.

The Bora Ultra 35 profile is what I would call a “box V”.  Like the Shamal and Bora Ultra tubulars that this wheelset is a descendant of, the rim on the Bora Ultra 35 clincher has a flat spoke-side nose which linearly widens along the rim sidewalls until it stops for the parallel brake track.  No blunt nose, rounded edges, curved sides, angled or tapered brake tracks you find on modern day carbon wheelsets that have figured out how to cheat the wind to reduce drag and crosswind effects.

While most of the wheels in this review aren’t very aero in the first place simply due to their low profiles, this is just a missed opportunity to add downhill speed given Bora Ultra’s depth.  If they shaped these rims better to make them more aero, you could use this carbon clincher for climbing and as an all-around.

These wheels, like several in this review, are priced by the manufacturer at the top end (USD$3300, £2500, €2800). Unlike some of the others, however, very good discounts can be found at  ProBikeKit UK ITK10WiggleChain Reaction Cycles, Merlin bringing them closer to USD$2100, £1900, €2200, AUD$2700 depending on the color and hub option you choose.

While the innovations and performance justify these prices in other wheelsets, there’s nothing that really stands out in the performance of these that would suggest to me they are worth their price.  The Bora One 35 (Chain Reaction Cycles, WiggleCompetitive Cyclist ITK10) with its less expensive hubs but otherwise, similar wheelset would be a better deal if you are committed to getting a Campy.

BONTRAGER AEOLUS 3 D3 – A GENERATION BEHIND IN BRAKING PERFORMANCE

Bontrager updated the Aeolus 3 D3 most recently for the 2015 model year by making it wider (19.5mm inside, 27.0 outside), lighter (about 100 grams less to a measured weight of 1400 grams with rim strips), and tubeless ready or “TLR.”

Bontrager Aeolus 3 TLR D3 Clincher Road Wheel

The wheelset retained its U profile, DT Swiss 240 hubs and Aerolite straight pull spokes. The rim resins, brake tracks and cork pads were also carried over from the prior model.

Quality and durability remain good.  This is a well-built wheelset that rolls beautifully on tubeless or 25C tires and with its smooth hubs.  Reports from the field, however, do say you need to replace the rim strips each time you take the tires off, somewhat of a nuisance.

It’s nearly as wide, deep, and comfortable as any of the other wheels out there and probably more aero judging from its depth and shape, though I haven’t seen any data.

Stiffness is good, if not exceptional and its extra 40-100 grams of weight compared to other CCC wheels is a minimal and indistinguishable difference when you are out for a ride.

In this latest model, however, Bontrager didn’t make any changes to improve the wheels’ braking and the difference is a very important one against the others I’m comparing these to.  The last model of this wheelset was equal to many of the other last generation carbon clinchers on dry roads but really was inadequate on wet ones with the cork pads that come with these wheels.  A couple other reviewers had good luck using SwissStop Black Prince pads in wet weather but they were a bit noisier and I don’t know that they’d improve braking performance in dry weather on their own going down alpine descents and through switchbacks.

Making no changes to resin, tracks or supplied pads puts the current Aeolus climber a generation behind those that have upgraded their braking performance in their new or updated models.  Fine for rollers and all around riding, but not for the steeps.

At it top shelf price ($2850 MSRP and $2700 online from Trek Bicycle Superstore, Sigma Sport), the Aeolus 3 D3 really isn’t up to par in performance for what you pay for in price.

ROVAL CLX 32 – POOR BRAKING AND AVERAGE STIFFNESS YIELDS DISAPPOINTING RESULTS.

Roval has been an early proponent of tubeless, wider wheels.  And, the CLX 32 was one of the first wheelsets to offer a deeper, more aero climbing clincher option.  With a measured weight of 1338 grams (58 grams above their claimed weight), the wheelset is also one of the lightest in this review.

With all those design features going for the CLX 32 and with a price hundreds below the nosebleed heights of Zipp, ENVE and Bontrager, you’d naturally be drawn to this wheelset.

As I often have to remind myself and my dear readers, performance (and cost) is far more important than design in choosing any piece of cycling gear.  Sometimes the design delivers the intended performance; sometimes it doesn’t.

Unfortunately, in the case of the CLX 32, the performance doesn’t match that of the best wheels in this review.

Yes, it feels light and is very responsive to changes in pace. But, climbing is a steady haul.  Acceleration matters little (unless you are racing).

Instead, stiffness is one of the keys to uphill performance. You want a stiff wheelset to translate your power as effectively as possible from your legs through your drivetrain and wheels, and ultimately to the road.  The CLX 32’s stiffness isn’t bad – it’s on par with most of the wheels in this review – but it lags that of the best.

You’d also think with rims that measure nearly 21mm wide between the beads and 28mm across the center of the brake track that it would be both quite comfortable and handle better than nearly all the others reviewed.  Again, it is comfortable and handles well with wide, tubeless, moderately inflated tires intended for these wheels but really no better than the others, most of which are far narrower.

Installing tires on most tubeless wheels is a roll of the dice.  Some you can put on without levers and blow up with a track pump.  Others require great effort to put on and a compressor to inflate.  With these Rovals, ditch the spoke-hole plugs that come with the wheels, tape the rims instead, put on the tire by hand and use a compressor.

To use a term I’ve learned from British fellow enthusiasts, it’s a bit of a “faff”.

Braking is the biggest disappointment for the CLX 32.  This otherwise thoroughly modern carbon wheelset brakes like a last generation one on the wet and the dry.  When you are descending after a great climb, you really want solid, confident braking and the CLX 32 doesn’t provide it.  When you are up against wheels with textured, etched or otherwise treated brake tracks, you really have to bring your A-game to the descent.

Where does that leave us? While on par with many wheelsets on many of my performance measures but behind them on braking, I’mhard-pressedd to recommend the CLX 32 against similarly and higher priced climbing clinchers.

If you want to see for yourself, they are available at many retail stores that sell Specialized gear and available online at Sigma Sport and the Specialized store here.

* * * * *

If you think I’m missing a few wheelsets from this review, you are correct.

I dropped the ENVE SES 2.2, the top performer from my prior review of CCC wheelsets, and the Zipp 202 Firecrest, the grand dame of this category.  Why?  Their performance has been eclipsed by the newer, more advanced ENVE SES 3.4 and 202 NSW respectively that reviewed above.

Reynolds also has the Attack, a low priced, lightweight climbing wheel.  Unfortunately, I can’t recommend that one because its brake track lacks higher temperature resins and the wheel badly failed mountain descent testing run by Tour Magazine.

There are also undoubtedly wheelsets made by companies that focus their sales and support within one country or region.  I’d love to review all of those but I wouldn’t be able to keep up.  If you think there’s a really, really special one in this category that would top the Best Performer or Best Value CCC wheels I’ve recommended above, let me know.

I’m not interested in testing open mold wheelsets designed and made in the east, contracted by marketing companies in the west, and sold for half price.  I’ve tested some of these and seen a lot of them fail.  They just don’t perform close to those from established companies that design, test, and stand by their wheels and have a track record of making good product and supporting their customers.

There are any number of tubular wheels that make great pure climbers.  As I wrote above, I’ve chosen not to review tubulars because I don’t believe most enthusiasts will want to give them the special attention they require either before or during a ride if needed.

All of that said, are there other carbon clincher climbing wheels with current generation materials and designs from well-established companies you think I should take a look at?  Please do let me know in the comment section below.  I also welcome any comments or questions about the wheelsets I have reviewed.

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28 comments

  • I really appreciate the time you put into this blog. I find it informative and very appropriate for type of riding I enjoy – mountains.

    If I may respectfully disagree with one point and that is the braking capability of the Mavic’s in the wet. I think suggesting they may not be suitable is not right . I have an 18 month old set of almost identical cosmic version and live in of late wet UK and have extensively ridden them in the rain when caught out. I have also just completed this year’s Haute Route Pyranees with them where 2 stages were wet. I found no issues descending steep mountains in the wet and performed very similar to alloys when riding to the conditions.

    The only caveat is like most textured rim, the braking surface needs to be cleaned of rubber buildup regularly especially after long spells of riding in dry weather; as do the swiss stop / Mavic yellow brake pads which tend to develop a sheen on their surface after a while. If neglected I have found this greatly reduces their performance in the wet, especially in the early stages – and perhaps this is what you experienced with the mavics? I find giving the rims a good wipe down with a premium nappy wipe every now and again, using fine sandpaper on the pads and clearing muck from the grooves in the pads when washing the bike maintains great stopping in the wet.

    As an aside, there were many carbon braking rims on the Haute Route, perhaps as many as alloys and quite a few disk brakes (Inc. Ted King and Mike Cotty on disks) – there was only one report of carbon rim failure but some thought it was a dodgy tyre and not the rim.

    • Claude, Thanks for your field report. That’s good to hear. My experience was different and relative to other wheels I tested but you’ve put them to the test in some ideal conditions (at least for evaluating their braking) and I welcome your input. Note that the “texture” on the Pro Carbon SL isn’t much of a texture – hardly discernable and nothing like the texture on the Zipp or ENVE wheels.

      I just wish Mavic would recommend something other than the Swiss Stop Yellow pads, perhaps the harder Black Prince ones? The yellows come speced with a fair number of carbon wheels and, similar to what you experienced, they wear quickly and leave a greenish, snotty looking mess on the rims. Good suggestion on how to clean them. Thanks for that.

      And yes, disc brake bikes/wheels is the way to go if you want to let it all hang out going down descents. Cheers, Steve

  • Useful article Steve. Putting aside the merits or otherwise of Shimano RS81, the width claimed for that wheel is 20.7mm. I assume that wheel is wide enough for a 25mm clincher?

  • Great comprehensive and seemingly unbiased review. Bravo! I have three sets of wheels. 3.4 tubies non textured (CKR45) 2.2 tubies textured (Tune), and Roval CLx 32 clinchers. Just a quick note…I agree, unfortunately, that the braking on the CLx 32s was a disappointment for me as well. Braking somewhat noisy as well. Having said that, I found them to be more responsive and stiffer than your experience with them. I feel like I do a good amount of climbing, 600 K ‘ thus far this year over 180 recorded rides. For reference, I am 5’8″ and weigh 134 lbs. I am looking to replace my 3.4s with the textured version in the near future. Again, thanks for the great read!

    • Tony, Thanks for the feedback on the review and your CLX 32s. Looks like you have the ideal climber body type… and a lot of climbing wheels! Enjoy, Steve

  • What about Vision Metron 40 SLs?

    • Klaus, Reviewed this wheel a few years ago. Compared to today’s carbon clinchers, it’s not light and has an inferior brake track. Not a climbing wheelset and not competitive on a performance basis even as an all-around. Build quality was also sub-par. No longer include it in the all-around review because I don’t think it’s one enthusiasts should consider. Steve

  • How do the ENVE 3.4 perform in wet conditions?

    • Bryan, Their wet braking is the best I’ve ever experienced, superior to Zipp, Mavic, Campy and any others who claim to have specially treated or textured tracks. Steve

  • I have been using Enve 2.2’s on my new Trek emonda for 2 months and 1000mls. I thought they were brilliant until descending the Zoncolan in the Dolomites last week. It was cold and damp and within 500 m of starting to descend the front rim deformed/ ruptured big time.
    I managed to get to the bottom very slowly with no mishaps fortunately.
    Has anyone else had this problem and if so would you, Steve go for the 3.4’s you have just reviewed? I am intending to get in touch with the supplier tomorrow to either get a full refund for the pair or possibly get the 3.4’s instead
    I emailed Enve 24 hrs ago with a picture and have yet to hear from them btw. I will be interested to see if they get back to me, I won’t be impressed if they don’t!

  • Gareth, big time bummer to read about your trip down the Zoncolan. I’ve ridden both the ENVE 2.2 and 3.4 (and 4.5) down some long steeps with never a problem. Nate did the 6-gaps, 100 mile, 10,000 ft climbing ride up in VT this summer on the new 3.4s on a very warm day also with no issue at all. The fact your front went after 500m on a cold day says to me there was something going on other than the kind of overheating I’ve seen with older carbon wheels.

    ENVE is usually pretty good and they have a 5 yr warranty so I expect they’ll take good care of you. Let me know how it goes after you work everything through. Steve

    • Many thanks Steve. Do you think I would notice a significant difference in performance and stiffness between the 2.2’s and 3.4’s ?
      I am certainly tempted by the latter despite the slight weight penalty. I note the rims are approx 150g heavier than the 2.2’s. I weigh 68 kg and am 5’8′ btw.
      Cheers
      Gareth

      • Gareth, I think the 3.4’s are stiffer and faster. Certainly faster going downhill and on the flats. The rim weight difference is negligible – 50g front, 45g rear. You won’t notice that difference going uphill. Steve

  • Hi, I’m getting a brand new Enve SES 3.4’s from a private seller for $2200. Is that a good buy if I compare them against $1600 Reynold’s Assault’s or the Mavics Cosmic pro Carbon SL? Most of my rides are flats or rollers (4-5%) and sometimes 8-10% (not long hauls though). Please advise. And many thanks for putting out these reviews. Great job.

    • Maninder, If they are first generation 3.4s, it’s not a great deal. If it is a second generation one, it is. BTW, you can the Assaults new at <$1600 if you use the links and discount codes I've provided for you in the post. I think they are pretty darn good but not as versatile as the new 3.4 for the kind of riding you are doing. Steve

      • Thanks Steve. And how can you tell if the pair is a 2nd generation or the first?

        • Maninder, Ask the seller for starters. The dimensions are different. The G2 is 38mm front/42mm rear vs 35mm/45mm the first generation; 21mm internal width, 29mm external width on the G2 vs narrower on G1. Also check out which hub they have on them. They come with either an ENVE ceramic hub (G2 only), Chris King or DT240 hub. Makes a difference in the sound and performance of the wheelset. Steve

          • Thanks Steve. Upon reading your reviews on other wheels, I’m thinking I should go with the Zipp 404 NSW’s (or Firecrest) or the SES 4.5 as my rides are more on the plains or rollers than on the mountains. What do you think? Or any other suggestion?

  • Maninder, Agree. The SES 4.5 is the more versatile of the two. The 404 NSW is a flat out speed wheel. Steve

  • Hi Steve, speaking to a local wheel holder who’s top recommendation like you is the ENVE 3.4s. As they’re out of my price range, his next best suggestion is the Alto Velo CC52s. Can find very little reviews so wondered whether you have tested these.

    • Paul, All due respect to you and your dealer, but it sounds like he’s trying to sell you a line he carries rather than what’s in your best interests. The wheel he’s recommending is 52mm deep and weighs 1600g. This is an aero wheel or, at best, an all-around but definitely not a climbing wheel. Alto Velo has been making wheels for about 2 years and is focused on the triathlon crowd. They are marketing their unique hub design – the rims are open mold.

      I spend my time sorting through all of sorts of wheels and claims so you don’t have to go into a shop and choose between the three or four lines they carry and get sold on something that isn’t right for you. I recommend a Best Performer and Best Value in most reviews. In this case, if you can’t afford the ENVE, I recommend you get the Mavic I reviewed in this post. And if you value my opinion enough to ask for it, do me a solid and buy from one of the stores I link you to so I can continue to fund the purchase, testing and reviews of these wheels. You’ll also do yourself a solid because, if you buy from these links, you’ll be buying from those that have the best prices and the highest customer satisfaction ratings. Steve

  • Cheers Steve, really appreciate that. The Mavics look good and a clubmate also recommended them. My only concern with Mavic was hearing from a few that getting a broken spoke can be difficult to source a replacement. Personally, I’ve never experienced a broken spoke, although there’s always a first, but wondered if this may be due to me being a lighter rider. Also, buying a couple of spare spokes when purchasing the wheelset would solve any sourcing issues later. Thanks again and will checkout the links.

  • Hi Steve, thanks for the comprehensive review!

    Just a question, how wide are the ENVE 3.4 wheels? On the official website, they are stated as 27.5mm, but it seems that different websites give different widths

    I am thinking of picking up a pair, but my BMC only allows clearance of up to 28mm widths, so that is a concern.

    • Melvin, There’s a chart in the post showing the rim widths of each of the wheels in the post. The “track width” or width at the brake track is the number you want to look at. Depending on what tire you put on and how much you inflate it, the wheel width can be even wider than the rim width. And then you want to allow 4-5mm on either side of the wheel for deflection when you are cornering under load. So if your BMC only has 28mm of clearance, I don’t think any of the wheels in this review are going to fit. That said, you might want to double check that 28mm number. Sounds pretty narrow to me. Perhaps its an older bike or perhaps that’s the recommended widest width wheel. Steve

      • Hi Steve, thanks for the quick reply. The assembly manual says maximum rim width of 28mm.

        On the official website, the 3.4 (front and rear) states their width as 27.5mm. On your chart, the front is stated as 28.3mm, therefore the concern

        • Melvin, the front and rear ENVE wheels are different widths (shapes and depths) so that’s why you see the different front and rear measurements I took on the set I rode. I also ran a 25C Zipp Tangente Tire that measured 26.7mm wide on the front wheel at 100psi. If you want to run a 28C tire, which I wouldn’t recommend, it will give you a wider wheel.

          I’d put the manual aside for a moment and measure the widths of the narrowest opening between your front forks and rear chain and seat stays. I’d also measure the brake caliper openings fully extended. You may need to add some more cable to your calipers or upgrade them to allow for enough opening for a wheelset the width of modern wheels mounted with 25C tires. Steve

  • Hmm, I’ve owned my Enve 3.4’s for almost a year now (with Chris King hubs), and I’m not sure where you’re getting “superior stiffness” from – they are probably the least laterally stiff wheels I’ve ever ridden, and I can easily get them to rub the brake tracks if I don’t open up the calipers. I’m not a particularly large rider at 154 pounds – if these wheels were stiff and not whippy, they’d be almost perfect. I love the braking with them, and haven’t had any issues with overheating on extremely steep descents (including the infamous Hauser Bridge on Levi’s Gran Fondo) – the first year I rode it, I stood in line with 4 people in front of me who had melted/destroyed carbon wheels and waiting to get replacement wheels from the SRAM dude.

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